Internet. At last. Having spent the last month on the top of a hill in Sagarmatha, with no internet, no mobile connection (the tower was broken) and even no light inside the house but the skinny skinny candles they sell at the local shop and the smoky light of the fire we use to cook our food---I'm afraid I've been a little out of touch. But at least I had a view on Mount Everest.
But before I tell you of all the adventures I've had in the other Maya school on the top of the hill, I will first talk about all the hours it takes to get there. In the bus. So here is a blogpost about the wonderfulness of nepali buses.
But before I tell you of all the adventures I've had in the other Maya school on the top of the hill, I will first talk about all the hours it takes to get there. In the bus. So here is a blogpost about the wonderfulness of nepali buses.
Some statements:
Manjil: 'Nepali people can sleep anywhere, under any circumstances'
True. During my moderately uncomfortable nightly busride from Kathmandu to Gaighat the boy who was sitting next to me kept on falling asleep and placing his head very cutely on my shoulder or sometimes even-rather painfully-*toek* bumping my head with his whenever the road would be bumpy. He didn't know I have lice but que garnee. I think I've had at least 5 complete strangers sleeping on my shoulder by now in the bus, in situations where I would find it very hard to fall asleep at all.
Manjil: 'Nepali people can sleep anywhere, under any circumstances'
True. During my moderately uncomfortable nightly busride from Kathmandu to Gaighat the boy who was sitting next to me kept on falling asleep and placing his head very cutely on my shoulder or sometimes even-rather painfully-*toek* bumping my head with his whenever the road would be bumpy. He didn't know I have lice but que garnee. I think I've had at least 5 complete strangers sleeping on my shoulder by now in the bus, in situations where I would find it very hard to fall asleep at all.
Nepali people drive dangerously
Not at all. However, I also believe that in a country where you have to drive on unpaved roads on the edge of very very steep cliffs with landslides blocking your way, there is not really any way to drive safely. Ashis told me a -not very comforting story- about this big big rock that was blocking the road after a landslide, and when the people came to break the rock into tiny pieces to level the road they found out that under this rock was a steel plate, and under this steel plate was a bus, completely flattened, with the corpses of the passengers also leveled to the ground. Thanks Ashis, you really know how to make people feel at ease during their busride.
I have always felt very safe in the hands of nepali busdrivers, who seem to know exactly when to stop, to honk, or whether its a good idea or not to take over in the middle of a turn (it usually is). I am really really amazed how they pull it off though, driving without any accidents through inhospitable terrains, often driving for 12 hours on end without taking more than 20 minute break for some dahl baht or a 5 minute break for some chia and then moving on again. It makes me think about how Dutch busdrivers are forced to make a one hour stop after 4 consecutive hours of driving. And it makes me think that it's maybe really not at all that safe:P However, I do believe that in the hands of a Dutch busdriver in Nepal you'd die way quicker than in the hands of a nepali one. You probably wouldn't even make it out of the driveway.
Not at all. However, I also believe that in a country where you have to drive on unpaved roads on the edge of very very steep cliffs with landslides blocking your way, there is not really any way to drive safely. Ashis told me a -not very comforting story- about this big big rock that was blocking the road after a landslide, and when the people came to break the rock into tiny pieces to level the road they found out that under this rock was a steel plate, and under this steel plate was a bus, completely flattened, with the corpses of the passengers also leveled to the ground. Thanks Ashis, you really know how to make people feel at ease during their busride.
I have always felt very safe in the hands of nepali busdrivers, who seem to know exactly when to stop, to honk, or whether its a good idea or not to take over in the middle of a turn (it usually is). I am really really amazed how they pull it off though, driving without any accidents through inhospitable terrains, often driving for 12 hours on end without taking more than 20 minute break for some dahl baht or a 5 minute break for some chia and then moving on again. It makes me think about how Dutch busdrivers are forced to make a one hour stop after 4 consecutive hours of driving. And it makes me think that it's maybe really not at all that safe:P However, I do believe that in the hands of a Dutch busdriver in Nepal you'd die way quicker than in the hands of a nepali one. You probably wouldn't even make it out of the driveway.
Nepali people are very patient
Yes. Definitely. More than me, at least. 'The bus will come at 11' ' oh no, I was wrong, it will come at 2' -sitting in a very very sweaty roadside cafe, already having had 2 drinks, having finished my book and having taken a nap as well, and still it's not even noon- let's just say I'm growing some reserves of patience while I'm here. On the way up from Gaighat to Rotha (some 4 hours up an unpaved track) we had to stop and get out 3 times overall; one time because a tyre broke and had to be replaced-everybody was waiting patiently as the conductor boys struggled with the tyres; one time because there was a landslide making the road too small to go accross-then all the men from the bus worked together to pile rocks and make the road wider again; and one time simply because we were stuck in the mud. I'm really impressed with how badly the people wanted to take the bus up, waiting for hours just to get an hour further up the hill (which would take the same amount of time walking).
Yes. Definitely. More than me, at least. 'The bus will come at 11' ' oh no, I was wrong, it will come at 2' -sitting in a very very sweaty roadside cafe, already having had 2 drinks, having finished my book and having taken a nap as well, and still it's not even noon- let's just say I'm growing some reserves of patience while I'm here. On the way up from Gaighat to Rotha (some 4 hours up an unpaved track) we had to stop and get out 3 times overall; one time because a tyre broke and had to be replaced-everybody was waiting patiently as the conductor boys struggled with the tyres; one time because there was a landslide making the road too small to go accross-then all the men from the bus worked together to pile rocks and make the road wider again; and one time simply because we were stuck in the mud. I'm really impressed with how badly the people wanted to take the bus up, waiting for hours just to get an hour further up the hill (which would take the same amount of time walking).
The texts painted on buses are hilarious
True. It paints a very funny and slightly macho picture of being a bus- or truckdriver, when on the back of the bus or truck it is painted, in colorful letters: black viper; knight rider; summer of '69; king of the road; make peace, not war; SEE YOU (written enormously large); One mistake: game over; (there are also often paintings of burning footballs for some reason); and of course 'Sound to pass' which everybody does happily.
True. It paints a very funny and slightly macho picture of being a bus- or truckdriver, when on the back of the bus or truck it is painted, in colorful letters: black viper; knight rider; summer of '69; king of the road; make peace, not war; SEE YOU (written enormously large); One mistake: game over; (there are also often paintings of burning footballs for some reason); and of course 'Sound to pass' which everybody does happily.
Stretch your arms out in front of you. Now grab your hands. The circle you see is your personal space
NOT. The perception of personal space is very very veeeery different from the Netherlands, where we usually keep at least a meter distance in public places. Here it is completely normal to have your body fully squeezed against another person in the bus, even if that person is a man. Often this is because the buses are too full and too small, so that if all the spots are filled you are sitting with your legs in between the legs of the person across from you. Sometimes, when sitting on top of a bus for example, you might have to interlink hands to prevent yourself from falling off-or to save others from falling. In return for this close contact, it is perfectly okay to give your bag-or baby, for that matter- to another person to keep on his lap when your lap is full or when you are standing. Kind of handy.
NOT. The perception of personal space is very very veeeery different from the Netherlands, where we usually keep at least a meter distance in public places. Here it is completely normal to have your body fully squeezed against another person in the bus, even if that person is a man. Often this is because the buses are too full and too small, so that if all the spots are filled you are sitting with your legs in between the legs of the person across from you. Sometimes, when sitting on top of a bus for example, you might have to interlink hands to prevent yourself from falling off-or to save others from falling. In return for this close contact, it is perfectly okay to give your bag-or baby, for that matter- to another person to keep on his lap when your lap is full or when you are standing. Kind of handy.
Now some tips to people strange to nepali buses.
- On long busrides, sit in the front. If you think the front is too bumpy it makes you nauseous, then too bad. The back of the bus is really much, much more uncomfortable.
- Don't sit *all* the way in the front, meaning next to the busdriver. This is where the engine is, and during the hours and hours of intensive labor this engine has to endure, it gets very very hot for your poor flip-flop covered feet.
- If you find that a couple of hours before your bus is leaving, people are already getting in, get in as well. Often, by the time the bus really is to leave it will be so incredibly full that you -or your things- won't fit in anymore, so the earlier you secure your spot, the better.
- If you are sleepy, feel free to put your head on the shoulder of the person next to you. They would do the same, and it makes it all the more comfortable for you to sleep.
- If sitting on top of a bus, make sure you hold on to something -or someone- stable, and if that's not available, at least make sure you don't have a shifting bag of rice leaning against your back. I had it once, and at every corner we took I felt it pushing me closer and closer to the edge, not a pleasant experience.
- If there is no bus and you find a tractor willing to take you in the trailer---don't. Unless it's a really really long way to walk or the road happens to be paved. Trailers on unpaved roads are really-and i mean really- uncomfortable.
- Just remember: Don't worry, no matter how difficult the road is, there is always a way to get there:)